Barbarella is the new Canary Wharf-based outpost in the Big Mamma family, which is behind the likes of Circolo Popolare London, Villa Capri in Madrid, Libertino in Paris, and Coccodrillo in Berlin. Each restaurant or bar in their roster dives head-first into vintage Italian glamour, rolling with the whimsical, the occasionally tongue-in-cheek, and a fashion-forward focus on luxury interiors.
Of course, Big Mamma has crafted the menu to a fine art in a similar vein to their dedication to Italian diasporic visual culture of the latter half of the twentieth century. They are known for elevated adaptations of the classics, and Barbarella’s opening night menu included garlic pizza bread with caviar, a timeless but fresh and punchy Margherita pizza, soft, pillowy maritozzi with a light vanilla filling, and olives and fresh airy bread, with burrata being carved like a turkey di Natale.
The ways in which the food, the interiors, and the resulting ‘vibe’ complement each other make Barbarella an experience beyond a dinner reservation. That being said, for those who really do just require a quiet meal with no external stimulation, this latest addition to Canary Wharf’s hospitality scene might not be the ideal spot. Its waterside location sets the bar, so to speak, as it is situated between various other pubs and bars, but Barbarella stands out in the first instance due to its exterior style. Not even vaguely resembling its interiors, the smart, streamlined orange neon on the ground floor of the uniquely contemporary YY Building indicates that this is a serious establishment with a penchant for elevated fun, whilst simultaneously being assertive in its adult aesthetic.
Barbarella is big on the cultural artefacts of 1970s Italiana glam. There is an approximate 100% chance that the restaurant will be used as a filming location in the near future; it would be too good an opportunity for those in the film and television industry to pass up. The walls of the ground floor restaurant space are lined with memorabilia from the 1970s and 1980s, particularly reminiscent of the Italo-disco scene: think record covers with beautiful big hair, roller skates, vinyl discs, and sequined outfits displayed and revered in frames. While this may sound a little on the gauche side, it is merely a sense of humour poking out at the sides of what is otherwise a meticulously designed space. There is an old-school light-up dance floor in the middle of the ground floor space, with tables on the perimeter for eating and conversing, providing the central feature with plenty of space. Similarly, the first floor, which is bridged by a deliciously dark staircase that makes the guest wonder what they might encounter, is much more airy, with comfortable seating meandering around the room. A filmic, illusory effect is produced by a mirrored ceiling, visible from the walkway outside the building, but despite a darkened staircase and almost comical mirrored ceiling, Barbarella manages to avoid adopting a seedy aesthetic, instead evoking luxurious, almost tactile surroundings to create an unforgettable and rounded experience of good food and atmosphere.
Big Mamma’s latest venture is a restaurant that is perfect for post-work drinks, but even better for traditional Italian food and cocktails with a contemporary, tongue-in-cheek twist, and even more perfect for those who have no desire to hang up their dancing shoes just yet.
Barbarella
Mackenzie Walk Unit 3 YY, London E14 5HX
Issey Scott is an arts and culture writer and sometime-curator based in London. She has produced texts for exhibitions in the UK, USA and Italy, and her by-lines include RIBA and The Big Issue. She is fascinated by the post-digital urge to transcend the body
